There is something properly magical about a dish that forces you to slow down.
We live in a world of “30-minute meals” and instant gratification, but some of the best things in life just take time. Pork cheeks are exactly that. They aren’t a cut of meat you can rush. They demand a slow, gentle afternoon in the oven, transforming from a tough muscle into something so tender you could eat it with a spoon.
If you haven’t cooked cheeks before, don’t be intimidated. They are actually incredibly forgiving. Once they are in the pot, they pretty much look after themselves.
To go with them, we’re making gnocchi. But not just any gnocchi—twice-cooked gnocchi. If you’ve ever had homemade gnocchi that turned into a gummy tragedy, this method is your safety net. By boiling them first, chilling them, and then frying them in butter, you get these beautiful golden pillows that stand up perfectly to the rich, sticky sauce.
The sauce itself uses White Port, which is a lovely change from heavy red wines. It’s brighter, slightly sweeter, and brings a wonderful floral note to the pork.
Grab a glass of wine, put some music on, and let’s get cooking.
There are just two “cheffy” tricks in this recipe that make all the difference.
- The Brine: We soak the cheeks in a simple brine before cooking. It sounds like extra effort, but it ensures the meat stays juicy and seasoned right through to the centre.
- Baking the Spuds: Instead of boiling the potatoes for the gnocchi, we bake them. This dries them out, meaning you need less flour to bind the dough. Less flour = lighter, fluffier gnocchi. Trust me on this one!
The Recipe
- Prep time: 45 mins (plus a little patience for brining/drying)
- Cook time: 3 hours
- Serves: 4
Part 1: The Brine (Start 24 hours ahead)
- 800g – 1kg pork cheeks, trimmed
- 1 litre water
- 50g kosher salt
- 35g sugar
- 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp peppercorns, 3 sprigs thyme
Dissolve: Pop the water, salt, sugar and aromatics into a pot and bring to a boil. Once dissolved, take it off the heat and let it go completely cold.
Submerge: Add the pork cheeks to the cold brine. Stick them in the fridge for 4 to 6 hours.
Dry: Tip the brine away. Pat the meat dry with kitchen paper and leave the cheeks uncovered in the fridge overnight. This dries out the surface so they sear beautifully the next day.
Part 2: The Gnocchi (Start the day before)
- 500g floury potatoes (Maris Piper are great)
- 120g ’00’ pasta flour (approx.)
- 2 egg yolks
- ½ tsp fine sea salt, ¼ tsp nutmeg
- Rice flour (for dusting)
Bake: Prick your potatoes and bake them at 200°C for 1 hour until tender.
Mash: Peel them while they’re hot (watch your fingers!). Pass them through a ricer or masher. Let the steam escape for a few minutes.
Combine: Add the salt, nutmeg, flour and yolks. Fold it all together gently. Don’t overwork it—stop as soon as you have a dough.
Shape: Dust your work surface with rice flour. Roll the dough into sausages and cut into 2cm pillows.
Boil & Cool: Drop them into boiling salted water. When they float (2-3 mins), scoop them out. Spread them on an oiled tray and pop them in the fridge overnight.
Part 3: The Braise & Sauce
- Brined Pork Cheeks
- Plain flour (seasoned with pepper)
- 1 onion (diced), 1 carrot (diced), 4 garlic cloves (minced)
- 200ml White Port
- 500ml chicken stock
- Fresh thyme
- 50g cold butter (cubed)
- Lemon juice
Sear: Preheat your oven to 160°C. Dust the cheeks in the flour. Heat a splash of oil in a heavy pot (like a Le Creuset) and sear the cheeks until they are dark golden brown. Set them aside.
De-glaze: In the same pot, fry the onion and carrot until soft. Add the garlic. Pour in the White Port and let it bubble away until it’s reduced by half.
Braise: Put the cheeks back in. Add the stock and thyme. Pop the lid on and put it in the oven for 2.5 – 3 hours. You want the meat to yield effortlessly to a spoon.
Finish: Carefully lift the meat out. Strain the sauce into a clean pan and simmer it until it coats the back of a spoon. Whisk in the cold butter for a glossy finish and add a squeeze of lemon to lift the flavour.
Part 4: Bring It All Together
Heat a generous knob of butter and a splash of oil in a frying pan.
Fry your chilled gnocchi until they are golden and crispy on both sides.
Plate up: A pile of crispy gnocchi, those tender pork cheeks on top, and a good drizzle of that sticky White Port sauce. Finish with some fresh chopped parsley.
